How should a disc like this compare to your other discs in weight. Heavier? Lighter? Same?
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Anhyzer/understable discs
- Thread starter ReinZ_96
- Start date
steve a
* Ace Member *
It should be more understable. Lighter is easier to get up to speed.
I say mid to high 160's. The lighter , the eaiser it is to turn over, I have found.
TheWCG
* Ace Member *
All my discs are in the same range. 165-175.
anfryzer
Par Member
The best anhyzer discs are stable. But, anyway, I think I know what you meant.
I think it depends on what disc is your turnover disc. I throw mostly between 168 to 172. My SOLF is only 165. My putters are around 175. Yet my turnover discs can fill that roll for different reasons. A disc that gets beat in good can become a good turnover disc even at the weights of your other discs. Having a disc of the same weight can have the benefit of more consistent release. Simply choosing a more understable disc at the same weight can work. I just got a DX Stingray, and because of how understable they are (been throwing stingers for a long time), I got a 176 and it is just about right for me. If you have a mold you especially like, of course, you can get a lighter weight in that it will be more understable, all other things equal. So, it really depends on a lot of things.
I think it depends on what disc is your turnover disc. I throw mostly between 168 to 172. My SOLF is only 165. My putters are around 175. Yet my turnover discs can fill that roll for different reasons. A disc that gets beat in good can become a good turnover disc even at the weights of your other discs. Having a disc of the same weight can have the benefit of more consistent release. Simply choosing a more understable disc at the same weight can work. I just got a DX Stingray, and because of how understable they are (been throwing stingers for a long time), I got a 176 and it is just about right for me. If you have a mold you especially like, of course, you can get a lighter weight in that it will be more understable, all other things equal. So, it really depends on a lot of things.
JoshEpoo
* Ace Member *
Best to keep things simple at first, perhaps even forever. 165g-168g is a good starting range.
It really just depends upon your current power level and what you are trying to accomplish. A max weight Roadrunner or Avenger SS might flip all the way over and become a backhand roller for me while the same discs in lighter weights are straight flyers for my wife.
No one can tell you exactly what you'll need; you have to get out there and actually throw them yourself to figure it out. I would also recommend you spend a little time browsing the technique forum at DGR to learn more.
165-168g forever!!!
djjeremiahj
Double Eagle Member
Here is my mentality:
*It depends on the intended use and what you are trying to accomplish.
As i throw FH and BH, a lot of the intended purposes of an U/S are lost.... but...
If you want it to be a "straight[er]" disc, go heavier than your base or keep it on the "new" end of wear.
* The "new" or extra weight tends to nullify the understable-ness of these discs and (effectively) make them a "straight" flying disc. (Also makes them less wind affected.)
- Conceptually, "straight" is akin to an SL, TL, or Buzzz - "straight" flying. I dont really use this method (new U/S disc as a "straight driver") much anymore as i switched to an SL. But it is what/how i use my new star Katanas (or a Sidewinder) until they break in.
If you want "more" turnover - greater "S", or easier "mid flight drift" - and adds (potentially) distance, go with Lighter or keep it on the "older" end of wear.
* The "old" or lighter weight tends to amplify the understable nature of these discs.
- My SL is 2-3g's lighter than my "normal" and i can bomb it really far, play wind tricks (hyzer flip,etc), and really push it into the range of understable flight.
hope it helps.
(begin the flames)
opcorn:
*It depends on the intended use and what you are trying to accomplish.
As i throw FH and BH, a lot of the intended purposes of an U/S are lost.... but...
If you want it to be a "straight[er]" disc, go heavier than your base or keep it on the "new" end of wear.
* The "new" or extra weight tends to nullify the understable-ness of these discs and (effectively) make them a "straight" flying disc. (Also makes them less wind affected.)
- Conceptually, "straight" is akin to an SL, TL, or Buzzz - "straight" flying. I dont really use this method (new U/S disc as a "straight driver") much anymore as i switched to an SL. But it is what/how i use my new star Katanas (or a Sidewinder) until they break in.
If you want "more" turnover - greater "S", or easier "mid flight drift" - and adds (potentially) distance, go with Lighter or keep it on the "older" end of wear.
* The "old" or lighter weight tends to amplify the understable nature of these discs.
- My SL is 2-3g's lighter than my "normal" and i can bomb it really far, play wind tricks (hyzer flip,etc), and really push it into the range of understable flight.
hope it helps.
(begin the flames)
opcorn:
Triflusal
* Ace Member *
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2010
- Messages
- 3,335
(conceptually) *----. an so called "anhyzer-disc" (in a manner of speaking),,, should be around (within the same 'golden zone' of{'golden zone' being the 'zone' in which you [If you will] best effectively throw certain weights})
$$$-plenty of times people say that lighter weights (grams) will act more 'understable'.
'This' can partly be (effectively) the case. Lighter 'weights' are easier to get up to the ("intended") cruising speed of your (as it were) "anhyzer disc",,,
##### _-- the light the 'disk' "is" the more it can change the cooling characteristics or said disk. lighter weights can (typically) have a lower parting line height (hitherto will be referred to as "P,L,H,") than their heavier "counterparts". Conceptually, this means the (previously referred to anhyzer disk) will act (more) understable,,,
(*Y*)&&^_- this meaning that your ("anhzer") "disk" will "anhyzer" more----
$$$-plenty of times people say that lighter weights (grams) will act more 'understable'.
'This' can partly be (effectively) the case. Lighter 'weights' are easier to get up to the ("intended") cruising speed of your (as it were) "anhyzer disc",,,
##### _-- the light the 'disk' "is" the more it can change the cooling characteristics or said disk. lighter weights can (typically) have a lower parting line height (hitherto will be referred to as "P,L,H,") than their heavier "counterparts". Conceptually, this means the (previously referred to anhyzer disk) will act (more) understable,,,
(*Y*)&&^_- this meaning that your ("anhzer") "disk" will "anhyzer" more----
The Hammer
* Ace Member *
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2008
- Messages
- 4,862
LOL.
Don't listen to DJJJ unless you want to be more confused than you started. He turns every simple question into a science project. It all boils down to:
A lighter disc will generally act less stable than a heavier one of the same mold.
If you buy a sidewinder and it is acting a little more stable than you wished; trade it for one that is a little lighter in weight.
