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Ask MILLENNIUM Golf Discs (1.8 QJLS are mislabeled QPLS)
- Thread starter Graphics@golfdisc
- Start date
dgdave
* Ace Member *
They usually don't sell for that much, but they are very nice discs. It's CE so it lasts forever. Let someone who likes QMS chime in. I don't really have a lot to say. I'm just bored out of my mind at work right now so I'm gonna talk on here a lot. This is going to be a long day.
Have fun all you discers!!!!!
Have fun all you discers!!!!!
Fritz
* Ace Member *
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2005
- Messages
- 4,682
Hwicha said:
That's tmurph, never buy discs from that guy. He totally price gouges all his listings. The CE QMS is a great disc, but it's not worth 42$, imo no disc is worth that much.
If you really want CE QMS's, I'm sure you can easily find them for around 20$.
1.) elements, coyotes and Auroras...are they similar? Don't they all have the same basic flight characteristics? That is , don't they all turn over if when you put too much pepper on them?
2.) DO sentinels ever "beat in". Do you need to buy the mill plastic for that to happen?
I bought a QMS today and can't wait to throw it...I will probably buy a sentinel as well.
2.) DO sentinels ever "beat in". Do you need to buy the mill plastic for that to happen?
I bought a QMS today and can't wait to throw it...I will probably buy a sentinel as well.
Fritz
* Ace Member *
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2005
- Messages
- 4,682
Tossin' in Memphis said:
1. The QMS is not similar to those disc, in my opinion. It's it's own animal. It can actually handle quite a bit of power, and it's extremely obedient, meaning your form needs to be on, or it'll go exactly where you tell it to go. If you tweak your wrist, it's going in the direction you tweaked it to go. If you tell it to go straight, it'll go dead nuts straight. And it can handle slight headwinds pretty good, as well as it loves tail winds.
2. Sentinels will take FOREVER to beat, which is a great thing to have in an overstable pig of a midrange that frightens the winds. Stick with teh Q-Sent, don't bother with the base grade plastic, or Sirius IMO.
Have fun with that QMS. Report back your thoughts.
Out of curiosity.....What do you do when you need a long neutral stable shot? Lets say that you have a 280' tunnel shot that is dead staright....do you hurl the QMS generally or rip the sentinel and let it fade some. I guess I am curious if there is an actual deficiency in the midrange gap between sent and ms? Or do you throw the polaris?????
Steady 26542
Double Eagle Member
1) I only know the coyote & aurora. They fly pretty similar. Personally, I like the QMS better. The QMS you bought was a good choice. (dead straight)
2) The sentinel will beat in but it will take a while. I only buy the Q-sents that were made in San Marino. I have yet to beat one in. But I want them the way they are. BEEFY! (overstable)
2) The sentinel will beat in but it will take a while. I only buy the Q-sents that were made in San Marino. I have yet to beat one in. But I want them the way they are. BEEFY! (overstable)
Fritz
* Ace Member *
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2005
- Messages
- 4,682
Tossin' in Memphis said:
CE Omega or Q-Mega for 280' or depending on my assessment of that day, I might pull out my 169g Stiff QMS or my 175g CE QMS, depends on which one I'm feeling at the moment.
This hole is hole #4 at Riverbend Park, Palisade Colorado, it's about 355-360' and I use my CE QMS. It's a double mando for the first set of arrows, the second set is for those who play from the rec tee pad.
This hole is hole #5 at Riverbend Park in Palisade Colorado It's about 385-390' and I'm more comfortable using my SJLS for the b-line straight shot.
Hope that answers your question.
JR
* Ace Member *
Hwicha said:
I prefer Aurora MS less than max weight to my gummy 179 because in Millennium plastic MS fades less. Although it's less HSS. I only have a QJLS 175 and it flips more than Leopards but fades more than a new Gazelle. Well to be exact it flips about as much as a 148 Star Leopard. Don't know how much less the JLS fades but it better be a lot less for tunnel work for my tastes. I usually don't want to s-curve in tunnels. But especially if there's early danger on just one side and the end is towards the direction of the natural flight of the disc it may be a good idea to pick an understable disc on holes that are wider on the right side and vice versa.
If one wants more HSS for safety margin than an MS a max weight gummy QMS is great gummy because of lesser kicks. For more D a broken in Gazelle that's lost a lot of the original fade or a Leopard would work fine for a lesser risk of flipping over or lesser fade respectively. Thrown low each of these discs are suitable for tunnel work but overall left to right to left motions have significant changes sometimes. Susceptibility to magnifying user errors is different enough with these discs to make an impact in real world situations for those that aren't machines in replicating each shot each time. Those less than 10 people in the world :-D
"If one wants more HSS for safety margin than an MS a max weight gummy QMS is great gummy because of lesser kicks. "
Amen!
Gummy Q drops instead of careening far away.
My basic Aurora came out domier and smaller dia than my S and Q, and it flips at more than 220+ft power (yeah, could be form errors). My S has the same shape and flight as the Q but is way easier to find in dense shady brush on cloudy days (color still pops in low light).
The Coyote is very similar, just a touch more nervous in gusts, while the Core has more finish fade for sure, even with half the flashing beat off.
Amen!
Gummy Q drops instead of careening far away.
My basic Aurora came out domier and smaller dia than my S and Q, and it flips at more than 220+ft power (yeah, could be form errors). My S has the same shape and flight as the Q but is way easier to find in dense shady brush on cloudy days (color still pops in low light).
The Coyote is very similar, just a touch more nervous in gusts, while the Core has more finish fade for sure, even with half the flashing beat off.
Steady 26542
Double Eagle Member
WHAT!! :shock:JR said:
I can only get about 300' out of my QJLS's (I think I have 4-5 @ ~168g) and none of them flip like a leopard. My QJLS's are dead freakin straight. Now I will admit that I only get about 325' on a typical drive with a 166g SOLF so maybe you have too much power for it. Perhaps you've got OAT issues. Is it an older QJLS? Weird...
RustyP1
Double Eagle Member
I've got a 176 Sanny Q Sent that's finally getting broken-in, and I LOOOVE it! I can finally get a good straight glide for about 75% of the flight before the nice predictable fade kicks in.Fritz said:
JR
* Ace Member *
Steady 26542 said:
All the flight comments are for unLEDded version although the LED on the bottom of the flight plate at the center didn't seem to affect flight at all. I can't compare my disc to other JLS family discs because it's the only one I've tried. I hope mine isn't representative of the mold. I don't know when it was made I bought it this fall but dunno how long it's been collecting dust at the seller. How does one recognize a new from an old one?
Now you can understand my reaction to getting this disc because I was expecting something totally different. I've sanded off the mild flashing otherwise it's new and untuned. I sure hope it's a lemon and the rest are much less flippy and less fading. I do have a use for it because it's got a LED and a battery holder in it for winter and night throwing. No matter if it dives under snow because the LED is so bright that it illuminates a lot of the surrounding snow.
I don't think OAT is a problem for me any more. I also don't have a speed to spin ratio problem because I use very mellow arm motion with short reach back. I'm throwing it only with approach form meaning I don't turn away that far because I keep my eyes locked on the aiming point. I need to throw this high and still it tips over. I also don't feel that I've ever had an unclean release from it. The grip is almost as comfy as with Leopards and Gazelles. About Teebirdish but mildly easier. With full power using approach form the longest I've gotten out of mine was IIRC about 280' on a line drive and Gazelle 175 is about 320' and Champ 175 Leo 350'. And more for Gazelles and Leos on s-curves but no distance gain for QJLS.
I usually don't break 400' on drives but often can get to 380' on line drives and even more often on golf s-curves on low lines. I know that my wrist extension is fair and I don't get much disc pivot at all because I don't dare to stop my wrist hard and retard other motions to help the disc pivoting as hard as possible due to throwing arm injuries that make me hurt for days on end if I try :-( So I do lack some spin generating capability but I compensate by not giving exceedingly much speed too. As proven by my ability to throw other understable slow fairway drivers well with majorly less initial hyzer. With that said the longest flat ground throws I've had were with a fairly heavy right rear wind with a mild s-curve with a 159 Earth Grade Resin Helios to 425'. I used a form my recuperating ankle can't take. Basically tip toeing. Also very Feldberg like minimally moving first step and quite slow shuffle step and an exploding plant step. That's what I need to incorporate after the ground melts and we get traction back. Wouldn't dream of it now. 70 000 Finns get hospitalized each year form slipping out of 5.3 million. No joy.
Hmm Don't know exactly but I've thrown a Z Pred on very high anny in a raging left to right wind that hit the bottom of the disc all the way to approximately 430' too. Not by design -to OB. Moved too much to the right. Like 40 degrees right of the initial vector :-D Considering I don't usually reach 320' with that max weighter Z Pred winds in the right circumstances can be fun
For reference on OAT for hyzer flip to flat I use about 20 degrees of initial hyzer for a broken in 175 DX Gazelle on full power approaches. 5 degrees more for a 175 Leo and a couple more for a 165 Star Leo and around 45-50 for the QJLS and 148 Star Leo. With each of the other discs I don't need to use as high an apex as I need with the QJLS. It's probably something very exotic if it's indeed my form because I do throw understable drivers all the time and no other disc has given me so much grief. Well just as an idea is the cruising speed of a QJLS a lot less than that of the Gazelle or the Leopard? That may explain something.
DiscGolfTeeSigns.com
* Ace Member *
Wordy!
Just throw the QJ till you get a straight, neutral flight out of it. It's not meant to be cranked on. Low speed high glide. In all dead seriousness, the J is for Jaguar... JLS is very glidey for a driver. It flips short when overpowered.
Just throw the QJ till you get a straight, neutral flight out of it. It's not meant to be cranked on. Low speed high glide. In all dead seriousness, the J is for Jaguar... JLS is very glidey for a driver. It flips short when overpowered.
Steady 26542
Double Eagle Member
Zach, are the new QJ's (with the new HOT stamp) less stable? I haven't thrown any since I have a ton of the old ones. The SJ's seem a bit more stable than my old ones. I've got one now that is seasoned and very straight. Do the new QJ's compare to the SJ's?
JR
* Ace Member *
Ted Damson said:
It didn't seem to register that I can prevent it from flipping with extreme hyzer but I can't prevent it from fading early and hard like a mutha. It's about as hard fading as a new max weight SOLF 1.1 except a tad more and starts the fading earlier and at a slower speed which is bad because it loses speed a lot quicker than a SOLF. Hence a short disc that I can often equal in length and flight path on lower lines with my heavy S Sent. That's certainly not right IMO for a QJLS.
Tuning won't help because it gets even flippier. I think it's the disc not the thrower this time. I do seriously not put high speed on it. Just like with other understable slow discs that work just fine with much less initial hyzer except they fly lower without flipping and much farther for the same power. Day after day throw after throw. I might accept that it was me if it was just a few throws but it's dozens of equal flights already. Always the same without overpowering???
Heck I can throw understable mids with the same power and speed no problem with less hyzer needed to flip to flat. Or there's something I don't know yet that only occurs with this disc and not the others in flight lines that is. That'd be cool to know if the added knowledge could be transferred to other discs and improving them too.
Steady 26542
Double Eagle Member
There's got to be something wrong with the disc. How old is it? What are the initials under it? Could you take a pick and post it? Again, mine are all dead straight for 300'.
Would you be willing to send it to me? I'd like to throw it for myself. (Not that I don't believe you or anything...)
Would you be willing to send it to me? I'd like to throw it for myself. (Not that I don't believe you or anything...)
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