Visualization and confidence. Think of where that gap is, be confident and go for it.
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Tips on Accuracy
- Thread starter rowdyray
- Start date
veek
Birdie Member
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2009
- Messages
- 257
First figure out the step you need (x, one, or none) depending on how tight the fairway. Then focus on the center of the first tight set of trees, visualize the flight path you need for after them trees (to add the right amount of hyzer/anhyzer) then focus back on the center of that first gap, and keep it low. Getting past that first gap is the important thing.
Spatula Cornroll
Eagle Member
Smooth and slow, followed by rapid acceleration across the chest (if you are hitting your nipple, you are on the right track.) to the hit, with a clean and consistent follow through. Think of pull starting a lawn mower.
Smokin' Joe
Par Member
Throw mids in the woods. Don't do the typical runup, maybe a couple of steps, like in the fairway. Playing in tight, wooded courses is what got me to drive with mids. As stated in a different thread, I'm at around 250' - 260' with mids now. :thmbup:
Interesting.
I do this on everything but putts.
For some reason, my head can't wrap itself around how to aim, without aiming at a chain link. I can't visualize my putt effectively I guess to find an "airpoint" for it to pass through.
Thoughts?
it seems like when i drive, my foot lands perpendicular to my target line and then i pivot on the ball of my foot when i follow through. doesn't pointing your toe towards your target line take away from the power you generate in your hips?
chrishysell
* Ace Member *
I've never believed in the chainlink method of putting. My reason is that we didn't have any basket courses in Richmond until I had been playing for 6 months. I also played lots of golf at night without lit baskets. I basically putted at a shape or a blur.
chrishysell
* Ace Member *
to me it feels like a continuation of the power. It's all timing. The hip rotation causes the foot to rotate and point towards your aiming point.
rusch_bag
* Ace Member *
Look at your target as much as you can.
RollDat
Par Member
Throw putter and midranges for shorter shots. Try not to use drivers if you dont have to.
Accuracy tips, particularly hitting gaps from the tee
It's only been 8 years, so I figure this is worth a bump.
I have several tournaments coming up on courses with lots of reasonable but tight gaps to hit off the tee. I need to hit these gaps with everything from putters to drivers, and on both forehand and backhand lines, and probably with some overhands thrown in.
I actually picked up some tips from this and other older threads, and have had some success even in a few practice sessions.
1) I've always done this, but it's reasonable on tee shots and off the fairway. I pick my gap, then the disc/shot for hitting said gap. When I hit that gap, things go fairly well. At any rate, the worst thing that can happen is missing that first gap, so that's my main priority.
2) This is something new I've been doing, and it seems from someone's comment about the brain not understanding "don't." I used to look a trees or other obstacles, partly believing that I would miss the thin tree, or that I could tell myself to miss a tree on the edge of the fairway that I was trying to miss. Now I will pick a spot on the ground in the distance (if uphill) or some distant trees/branches or other targets, and aim for that. So far, it's worked okay. There were many people saying to aim for a box in the air, but that just doesn't work for me. Also, I realize my form doesn't allow me to visualize the target as I throw. I just accept that, lay eyes on my target from the back of the tee area, and go for it.
What works for you guys/gals? How do you consistently hit your gaps?
It's only been 8 years, so I figure this is worth a bump.
I have several tournaments coming up on courses with lots of reasonable but tight gaps to hit off the tee. I need to hit these gaps with everything from putters to drivers, and on both forehand and backhand lines, and probably with some overhands thrown in.
I actually picked up some tips from this and other older threads, and have had some success even in a few practice sessions.
1) I've always done this, but it's reasonable on tee shots and off the fairway. I pick my gap, then the disc/shot for hitting said gap. When I hit that gap, things go fairly well. At any rate, the worst thing that can happen is missing that first gap, so that's my main priority.
2) This is something new I've been doing, and it seems from someone's comment about the brain not understanding "don't." I used to look a trees or other obstacles, partly believing that I would miss the thin tree, or that I could tell myself to miss a tree on the edge of the fairway that I was trying to miss. Now I will pick a spot on the ground in the distance (if uphill) or some distant trees/branches or other targets, and aim for that. So far, it's worked okay. There were many people saying to aim for a box in the air, but that just doesn't work for me. Also, I realize my form doesn't allow me to visualize the target as I throw. I just accept that, lay eyes on my target from the back of the tee area, and go for it.
What works for you guys/gals? How do you consistently hit your gaps?
NoseDownKing
Eagle Member
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2018
- Messages
- 560
I guide/push the disc to the apex I want to hit. It might be more of a feel thing but it works for me.
Before the throw I only focus on the air. I completely unfocus the trees and make them "non-existing". The only thing I see is the air.
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Before the throw I only focus on the air. I completely unfocus the trees and make them "non-existing". The only thing I see is the air.
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
If I have to hit a gap, I pick the slowest disc I can use for the shot, visualize the landing spot in my head but then focus on a point around 30ft in front of me I have to hit. After that, I just hope the disc (and it's flight characteristics) does it's job. lol..
drk_evns
Eagle Member
I walk to my address and choose a point in the distance on the ground where I want the disc to land. Then I choose an object or spot in the sky way in the distance (anything that you can focus on. I often pick a cloud or tree that I couldn't possibly reach) that is behind the apex of the line I need to hit. Disc choice determines flight path and distance. Brain automatically adjusts power based on feel.
Accuracy comes from consistency. Consistency comes from form. Swing Centrifugally. Stay in Balance. Throw with your body not your arm.
Accuracy comes from consistency. Consistency comes from form. Swing Centrifugally. Stay in Balance. Throw with your body not your arm.
Casey 1988
Shun the frumious Bandersnatch!
One tip: I have found in hitting the spot is use the disc that can handle the slower speeds best even if the disc is faster then what others use for the same spot.
Examples: I use an Impact in most gap shots where most others might use a putter or slow midrange to hit the spot. Also I use a slight OS slower midrange at times to do tunnel shots sometimes Impact or Stalker where most others would use a putter or a slow midrange depending on how tight. Very tight tunnel then Impact as that is the straightest disc I have ever used with a almost not noticeable S flex to the shot. If not as tight or need to hit a very specific landing zone, then I use a Star Shark as it acts like a slight OS putter for the landing shot yet has a relatively flat flight until the end. The Stalker would be for long tunnel shots that go decently farther then the midrange/fairway hybrid Impact yet need control down a tunnel that is not super tight.
Examples: I use an Impact in most gap shots where most others might use a putter or slow midrange to hit the spot. Also I use a slight OS slower midrange at times to do tunnel shots sometimes Impact or Stalker where most others would use a putter or a slow midrange depending on how tight. Very tight tunnel then Impact as that is the straightest disc I have ever used with a almost not noticeable S flex to the shot. If not as tight or need to hit a very specific landing zone, then I use a Star Shark as it acts like a slight OS putter for the landing shot yet has a relatively flat flight until the end. The Stalker would be for long tunnel shots that go decently farther then the midrange/fairway hybrid Impact yet need control down a tunnel that is not super tight.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2012
- Messages
- 3,995
With the risk of repeating someone else, concentrating on leading with the elbow backhand, coupled with a closed stance on release has been a miracle for me. I'm hitting my lines almost always now.
TheBeardedFatGuy
Birdie Member
This applies less to wooded holes with tunnel shots, but there's a reason the pros love to do a high hyzer bomb with an overstable disc when the layout allows, and it has as much to do with accuracy as it does distance. Overstable discs tend to have a fairly predictable pull to the left (rhbh). Once a player becomes really familiar with a particular disc's pull, it makes the mental calculation of the throw that much easier because at least one factor in the equation is well known. I used to think the most useful discs would inevitably be the most dead-center stable ones because you had more control over angle and line, but now I know that's not true. A stable disc requires more accuracy and consistency than an overstable one because it is way more sensitive to how it's thrown - accidentally add even a tiny bit too much tilt either way and it's going to be way off the line you wanted.
This can apply to tunnel shots, too, because a good player can adjust speed and tilt to make an overstable disc stay flat longer, or even finish right. They also might hyzer flip an understable disc, but I see these shots less often than the reliable overstable ones because, again, they tend to be less consistent and are sensitive to even slight changes in your throw.
I'd say the best answer to wooded courses with lots of tunnel shots is find the overstable disc that is within your ability to make it fly straight, and learn how much power you need to use to keep it flat for a range of distances. If you can do that AND still have enough power to reliably turn the disc over to finish right when you want to, you've really got something.
This can apply to tunnel shots, too, because a good player can adjust speed and tilt to make an overstable disc stay flat longer, or even finish right. They also might hyzer flip an understable disc, but I see these shots less often than the reliable overstable ones because, again, they tend to be less consistent and are sensitive to even slight changes in your throw.
I'd say the best answer to wooded courses with lots of tunnel shots is find the overstable disc that is within your ability to make it fly straight, and learn how much power you need to use to keep it flat for a range of distances. If you can do that AND still have enough power to reliably turn the disc over to finish right when you want to, you've really got something.
