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[Innova] TL3 - Evolution of the TL

A few seasons ago I lost a Champion TeeBird seasoned to perfectly straight with forward fade. I've tried every variation of TeeBird/TL in just about every plastic available and I've come to the conclusion that a slightly used *TL3 is as close as I'm going to get.
 
A few seasons ago I lost a Champion TeeBird seasoned to perfectly straight with forward fade. I've tried every variation of TeeBird/TL in just about every plastic available and I've come to the conclusion that a slightly used *TL3 is as close as I'm going to get.

A Gstar TL didn't do the trick? Those are bombers and straight. I have a Star TL3 and it's almost as long with a touch more fade. Both of those have less fade than my 150g Star Teebird.
 
This probably sounds extremely knit picky, but no. The g* TL wasn't as quite as long or as hss. Is there anything more beautifully subjective than perfect TeeBird flight? I think not.
 
Anyone tried the Mason Ford TL3?

I got one the other day so far I have thrown it at least a dozen times. I'm liking it a lot. Numbers are right on 8 4 -1 1 for sure. Overall not any different than a normal star in my opinion. My Madison light weight from last year is more stable at 8 4 -1 2 imo.

I'm going to play a one driver round with it tomorrow and try to get it broken in a bit.

My only gripe about innova tour series discs is I wish they had more weight ranges then just max weight. I have a bad back and prefer my drivers 165ish.
 
Wondering if anyone can shed some light and a quick search didn't yield anything helpful.

Was there any retooling of the mold when the numbers went from 8 4 0 1 to 8 4 -1 1 or is that just a accuracy/marketing change?

The TL3 (0/1) is one of my all time favorite discs and i lean on it pretty hard on long wooded courses. Wondering if I should keep my eye out for 0/1's for back ups or if it doesn't matter and all variations are just how the runs mold up.
 
My only gripe about innova tour series discs is I wish they had more weight ranges then just max weight. I have a bad back and prefer my drivers 165ish.

As far as I'm aware the players specify the weights they want the discs made in. For example the Christine Jennings Sidewinders and Philo Destroyers are all 171-172g, I think.
 
Wondering if anyone can shed some light and a quick search didn't yield anything helpful.

Was there any retooling of the mold when the numbers went from 8 4 0 1 to 8 4 -1 1 or is that just a accuracy/marketing change?

The TL3 (0/1) is one of my all time favorite discs and i lean on it pretty hard on long wooded courses. Wondering if I should keep my eye out for 0/1's for back ups or if it doesn't matter and all variations are just how the runs mold up.

I hadn't noticed the change in numbers until mentioned. My only experience with them is with earlier runs from a few years ago...had a couple gstars that started beefier than I was expecting but eventually broke in really nice. I primarily throw the pearly champ run. Starting out I'd say the 0,1 ratings are true but definitely do break into the -1, 1 rating.

I haven't thrown one of the -1, 1 ones fresh to see if they start out with some flip, but I'd expect they just tweaked the flight numbers a bit as the -1, 1 flight is more true after the initial break in period.

Side note, I know there are mixed feelings about the use of flight numbers, but with the massive influx of new players I think it'd be a good move by all manufacturers to acknowledge how their numbers are derived. Or basically say brand new numbers might not be quite true until you hit enough trees. Or say brand new these are the numbers are true and eventually will show flip/diminished fade as you hit more trees.

Ideally shops would have somebody knowledgeable to suggest the right stuff to new players, but we all know that's not the case and a lot of people purchase based on numbers or a bunch of other variables that don't really provide legit help.
 
I hadn't noticed the change in numbers until mentioned. My only experience with them is with earlier runs from a few years ago...had a couple gstars that started beefier than I was expecting but eventually broke in really nice. I primarily throw the pearly champ run. Starting out I'd say the 0,1 ratings are true but definitely do break into the -1, 1 rating.

I haven't thrown one of the -1, 1 ones fresh to see if they start out with some flip, but I'd expect they just tweaked the flight numbers a bit as the -1, 1 flight is more true after the initial break in period.

The new GStars are still like that. I was shocked at how stable the 170g GStar I have is (for a TL3 of course). It was more like 7/4/0/2 out of the box. I prefer the feel of my Star TL3 anyway, but I'll probably keep the GStar in the practice stack to see how it breaks in.
 
The first run Star I bought at release has more dome and is stamped 8/4/0/1 and flew close to those numbers. So Innova felt the need to make the TL3 more neutral and adjusted something in the production of the recent runs (8/4/-1/1), maybe trying to get the flight they got initially with the TL3 in GStar blend. Could be a retool to create a flatter top to share with the now stock Wysocki Champion Teebird3 (also more neutral recent runs)?

I notice a taller nose on the 8/4/0/1 first run Star TL3 vs. the current 8/4/-1/1 Star & Champion. This could be due to a different top mold piece or different plastic blends being used. I've not thrown/handled a GStar TL3 or Teebird3 but I think both of those molds were introduced as stock molds originally in GStar. I suspect that GStar plastic blend dictated how the mold was originally created (softer plastic, beats in quicker and generally less OS) and once Innova started molding up a lot of stiffer Champ/Star versions (not CFR/Tour series) the mold got changed to be flatter and they re-evaluated the flight numbers down to 8/4/-1/1 for the TL3.

Could be marketing as well to differentiate from the Teebird/3 and fill the neutral fairway 'gap' in the lineup.
 
Is a domey TL noticebly less OS than your typical TL3. I just don't have the zip on my BH to flatten a TL3 out for distance. I was looking at a TL around 168g wondering if it would be easier for my BH.
 
Not sure how they compare to a TL3 since I have not thrown any. Years ago I threw a domey Star TL at 171 grams that had a controllable turn. It would flip flat from a slight hyzer or turn on a flat throw. This was after being beaten up. When new it was a laser beam that would hold the angle of release with almost no fade.
 
Is a domey TL noticebly less OS than your typical TL3. I just don't have the zip on my BH to flatten a TL3 out for distance. I was looking at a TL around 168g wondering if it would be easier for my BH.
Detecting any difference in how a 171g Star TL with decent dome flew VS a 170g Star TL3 was beyond my skill level. Seemed like the same damn disc to me. I ended up with a QJLS in that slot.
 
Has anyone compared their 2021 Halo TL3 to a new run? I got a new one from DGU because I couldn't help myself (pic for reference). The PLH is the same as my 2021, but it's a little flatter and feels like it will be less overstable than the old one. Gotta wait for some snow to melt before I get to compare, but wondering if anyone has tried both.

qRFD1lJ.jpg
 
Has anyone compared their 2021 Halo TL3 to a new run? I got a new one from DGU because I couldn't help myself (pic for reference). The PLH is the same as my 2021, but it's a little flatter and feels like it will be less overstable than the old one. Gotta wait for some snow to melt before I get to compare, but wondering if anyone has tried both.

qRFD1lJ.jpg

Hows that?
 
Has anybody managed to beat the fade out of their Champion TL3?

I'm getting tired of waiting for my Luster Leopard3s to fully get there, and though I know holding on to fade is pretty typical for premium plastic, some mold and plastic combinations do better than others.
 
Has anybody managed to beat the fade out of their Champion TL3?

I'm getting tired of waiting for my Luster Leopard3s to fully get there, and though I know holding on to fade is pretty typical for premium plastic, some mold and plastic combinations do better than others.

Sadly not. I got impatient waiting for it to beat into more neutral and got a Star TL when I couldn't find a Star TL3 a while back. The TL was closer to that -1 1 neutral flight out of the box.

I still like the Champ TL3, but I got it before I understood that Champ would likely be more stable, so it didn't fill the role I wanted. But if others found that it beats in eventually I might cycle it back in.
 
Has anybody managed to beat the fade out of their Champion TL3?

I'm getting tired of waiting for my Luster Leopard3s to fully get there, and though I know holding on to fade is pretty typical for premium plastic, some mold and plastic combinations do better than others.

Sadly not. I got impatient waiting for it to beat into more neutral and got a Star TL when I couldn't find a Star TL3 a while back. The TL was closer to that -1 1 neutral flight out of the box.

I still like the Champ TL3, but I got it before I understood that Champ would likely be more stable, so it didn't fill the role I wanted. But if others found that it beats in eventually I might cycle it back in.

My TL3s lifecycle is usually - off the shelf 8/4/0/1+ -> 8/4+/-1/1. The fade doesn't really go away, just a little added turn with a few tree hits and flashing smoothed out.

QJLS is probably the right choice for truly neutral flight and hand feel most similar to a DX or beat up Star TB
 
My TL3s lifecycle is usually - off the shelf 8/4/0/1+ -> 8/4+/-1/1. The fade doesn't really go away, just a little added turn with a few tree hits and flashing smoothed out.

QJLS is probably the right choice for truly neutral flight and hand feel most similar to a DX or beat up Star TB

Or a 165-170 g Champ or Star (not Luster) Leopard3.
 

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