Discmania

[himynameismatt]

I almost gave up on the TD when I first realized how straight it is. It took a while (and Feldberg raving on about them) before I realized what they were for.

Hopefully they'll come out with a TD2 to fill the truly understable premium plastic slot. The D-TD is definitely understable but it also falls to pieces in a round or half.

I would love a slow slightly understable driver from them. Anhyzer top Leo Bottom. In my dreams I'm picturing a Stalker like disc but with more glide.

 

[money 21]

i no it has been said before but i think the cd turns easier then the td. The new echo star rr fly like the td as well. beefiest rr i have ever thrown.

 

[himynameismatt]

1 C-TD has replaced 3 Stalkers in my bag. Powered down it's flies like my hard fading glo stalker. With a lil power it pops flat from hyzer and is a lazer beam like my fav FR Stalker but about 4x more glide(rough estimate ). And when I overpower it holds pretty anny lines that my beat stalker wasn't neccesarily great at. This disc is also making me feel less bad about not throwing PPD's much anymore.

 

[himynameismatt]

I almost gave up on the TD when I first realized how straight it is. It took a while (and Feldberg raving on about them) before I realized what they were for.

Hopefully they'll come out with a TD2 to fill the truly understable premium plastic slot. The D-TD is definitely understable but it also falls to pieces in a round or half.

Just curious what does Feldberg think of the TD?

 

[Flick Maniac]

It took a while (and Feldberg raving on about them) before I realized what they were for.

Hopefully they'll come out with a TD2 to fill the truly understable premium plastic slot. The D-TD is definitely understable but it also falls to pieces in a round or half.

Pray tell what is the correct use for a S-TD? I have a 170g one, and it can hold an anhyzer if forced, but always wants to come back a bit. My speed and form are not 100% there so that may contribute to some extent, but that should not be the only reason (3rd year playing). Never really found good use for that disc. Straight drives (on wooded holes)? Maybe.

I do have a 180g D-TD that is beat to smithereens and that one does turn like a bastid. Just on the edge of becoming flippy enough to be useless. I say: give me a true out of the box understable premium plastic disc! (preferably Discmania, I'm all about them. Innova will also do in a pinch.)

 

[jubuttib]

Just curious what does Feldberg think of the TD?

From an older post of mine:

And the gummier TDs are really nice for understable drives, while the stiffer TDs are more stable and can be thrown really, really straight for quite long distances (Dave Feldberg likes those and said it's one of the straightest drivers he knows. 400-500 feet straight drives with a small hyzerflip).

At his clinic he was really praising them, said he was gonna bag it. Though in the end he didn't.

Pray tell what is the correct use for a S-TD? I have a 170g one, and it can hold an anhyzer if forced, but always wants to come back a bit. My speed and form are not 100% there so that may contribute to some extent, but that should not be the only reason (3rd year playing). Never really found good use for that disc. Straight drives (on wooded holes)? Maybe.

Correct use depends on the variety of TD you happen to have. 170 you say? Most of the ones hovering around 170g I've seen have been of the stiffer, more stable variety. Great for dead nuts straight shots and will hold anhyzers for a long while before pulling out. Those are really nice, my favorite since they eventually beat up into understable anyway, no need for the out of the box flippy ones after a while. The flippiest TDs I know (apart from D-Lines) are the regular rim C-TDs (with patent #) and heavier gummy S-Lines (my favorites out of those are the red champystar ones). Those will have turn out of the box, but they're still not as flippy as for example Roadrunners. Slanted rim C-TDs with the www-tooling are about in the middle.

If possible you should go to the store and check the PLHs before buying. Go for the lowest one if you want understability.

 

[himynameismatt]

Cool thx jubuttib good stuff there.

I have a slanted rim www. tooling C-TD and would have to agree about them being right in the middle in terms of stability. I have to really rip on mine with a flat release to get any turn out of it. In field work it always surprises me because on a good rip it will get out to 400+ on a lazer.

 

[Flick Maniac]

Thanks jubbu.

Sure thing, my S/TD is anything but gummy. Feels like aluminum painted blue. No wonder it flies like a train. I guess it will break in, in a number of decades.

 

[jubuttib]

No problem.

 

[himynameismatt]

Finally starting to get some turn out of my TD. Just have to throw it stupid hard the way it turns and slowly fades back makes me think this thing is going to beat into the perfect anhyzer disc might take a year or two though the way this c-line holds up.

 

[JR]

My straight S TD thrown at full power annied and fairly high held the anny to the ground at 350' in D and stopped early in sideways motion by hitting an obstacle. It was moving right fast having already moved 90' left to right. Enough? That is enough turning for me although it was released in 4-5 degree anny that held all the way without change in the angle. With more height it would have been at least 30' longer and way more right. No idea of the flexing back capability after having seen this shot. Annies of this angle need way higher apexes than usual golf throws. Unless you don't ever play wooded courses that force lower lines.

 

[jubuttib]

So, I had a field session today (hadn't had one in a long while), and brought along most of my max D discs, including 6 P-DD2s, 1 ES-DD2 and 1 S-DD2. I haven't been able to throw these all year, and took them out of my bag some time ago. My distance form hasn't really been working this year (mainly due to lack of practice), but I had noticed a couple of things like badly angled reach back, lacking weight shift and too low pull line, so I set to work. After a few shots I started to get a hang of it once again.

Long story short I was throwing the DD2s more like I did last year, and the results were great. I'd been having trouble breaking 380' for a while now this year and now I was getting them to around 420-430' with some knocking on 450', and flying pretty consistently (except naturally on the throws where I instantly knew I messed up). All the different plastics and weights (max in the premiums, 3x171 and 3x175 in the Ps) flew on slightly different lines but were consistent among themselves, and I remembered why I liked them last year. I was also throwing Nuke, King, DD, Destroyers and Swords in the same session, and the P-DD2s were consistently the longest.

But I can also see why I stopped throwing them. They're not forgiving. They need to be thrown much faster than for example a Destroyer to get anywhere. This might actually be a good thing since it forces you to focus on your form, but mainly for practice purposes. So yeah, I'd happily put the DD2s back in when my form is working, but if I'm not 100% certain they stay out.

 

[JR]

I always recommend that people carry a hot rod disc for utility shots that need to go faaaaaar with a lot of danger involved in case of a miss. If the disc happens to be fast and glide well and possibly a light one it can also fly over trees and other obstacles farther. That opens up more big arm like options for tackling escape shots or desperation moves like going for a win with a drive when you are trailing and there are few holes left where it is difficult to gain on the guy ahead of you. P DD2 doesn't come in really low weights but is is long. So are light R-Pro Bosses and the hopefully more durable ESP low 160s Nukes for example. And of course there is the learning aspect of trying to succeed on the razors edge of having to execute a great or perfect shot or crash and burn. That is good for developing mental toughness too.

 

[jubuttib]

I guess the main reason I hesitate to put the DD2 back in the bag is that there really isn't a chance to use it on our course. There are only two holes over 400'. One of those has OB all the way on the right, dense woods all the way on the left, and a paved path right down the middle, which is also OB, so you want to be accurate on that one and while it's not exactly narrow it isn't wide enough for a risky max D line. The other one is mostly all open, but theres a downhill slope on the right (leading to a watery grave...) and a couple of trees near the tee that totally prohibit an RHBH anhyzer line, or even turnover, or indeed a totally straight shot. You have to either throw a pure hyzer, a straight->fade shot, or a shot that only very minimally tracks to the right before fading back. Turning over a bit too much can put you into huge trouble. On this sort of hole I'd rather throw a hyzer line with the sword.

But the DD2 definitely came in handy when I was playing in Oulu (Meri-Toppila), lots more room to work it and it felt really good there.

 

[JR]

Like is said getting out of jail is a good reason to carry them. Not many courses allow the usage of ripper discs without a lot of danger.

 

[jubuttib]

I was rifling through the discs at a local sports store, and they had some of the newer run D-P2s. Boy were those nice and stiff. Stiffer than many of the KC 12x Aviars I fondled at the EO (though those were admittedly surprisingly soft for KC). Luckily I don't have any money to buy them...

EDIT: Incidentally, they also had Champion Valks. All of them +. Not a good thing.

 

[fanter]

EDIT: Incidentally, they also had Champion Valks. All of them +. Not a good thing.

Whaaaaaaaaaaaat :evil:

 

[dgdave]

I was rifling through the discs at a local sports store, and they had some of the newer run D-P2s. Boy were those nice and stiff. Stiffer than many of the KC 12x Aviars I fondled at the EO (though those were admittedly surprisingly soft for KC). Luckily I don't have any money to buy them.

I want some of those

 

[JR]

I was rifling through the discs at a local sports store, and they had some of the newer run D-P2s. Boy were those nice and stiff. Stiffer than many of the KC 12x Aviars I fondled at the EO (though those were admittedly surprisingly soft for KC). Luckily I don't have any money to buy them.

I want some of those

On the news that there are stiffer D P2s i ordered one online along with other discs and did not get a stiffy in any sense :-(

 

[New013]

So I'm in need of a more stable driver than my Wraith and I'm looking at grabbing a PD.

My question is are the C Lines the most OS out of all the runs? I saw a S Line today and it was kinda domey so I'm curious as to how the C Lines compare in terms of stability, domeyness and distance.