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Noobie Question Thread (Dumb Questions answered here)

Update: have made it to page number 23 on this thread and have checked out the noob primer pretty extensively (thanks BroDave)
Have already learned so much about gripping, ripping, and throwing, and looking forward to applying this new knowledge on the course ... if only I could take a week off from work ... *sigh

This being said, I do have a question that I do not know will have an answer.

I have taken a look at the links jenb has provided above and become very familiar with Innova's disc rating format. In fact, I'm getting so comfortable with it that I'm actually beginning a list of new discs I want to purchase to play around with (three days ago I had not a clue what I wanted).

So, now that I am familiarizing myself with Innova's disc ratings, I find myself in a quandary: all of my discs are Discraft! Besides Joe's chart, is there something else that will correlate the ratings of my Discraft discs to Innova's formula (or vise versa)?

Thanks,
Tony

http://marshallstreetdiscgolf.com/htmlpages/flightguide.html

Will help give general comparisons and the disc devil review site has good input from players as well as flight charts incorporated.
 
So, now that I am familiarizing myself with Innova's disc ratings, I find myself in a quandary: all of my discs are Discraft! Besides Joe's chart, is there something else that will correlate the ratings of my Discraft discs to Innova's formula (or vise versa)?

Thanks,
Tony

Joe's chart is the best one to me. The altitude one I linked also provides some numbers and it is helpful in that it categorizes by manufacturer. The marshall street chart I linked and others linked is the easiest and most user friendly universla chart, but it doesn't provide separate numbers for turn and fade, which is the same problem I have with discraft's chart. They just give a general stability rating. I'd look at the marshall street chart to identify candidates and then look at joe's chart to see what the turn and fade differences are between those candidates.
 
What does it mean when someone "niced" your shot? I just heard this the other day and had no idea what it meant.

It seems like whenever someone says "nice" on a good looking shot that is still in the air, it hits a tree or branch instantly knocking it down. Hence the term, niced :)
 
Flashing is extra plastic unintentionally left on the disc due to the molding process. It is usually sharp and on the outside edge or bottom edge of the disc.

Pearly refers to a disc that is champion plastic that is not see through (looks pearly). There is a pearly disc thread on here somewhere where you can see plenty of examples! Here for instance.
 
I have been using the PDGA iPhone app and I am wondering how they calculate round ratings and what goes into the number you get. Also what is a good round rating?
 
Flashing is extra plastic unintentionally left on the disc due to the molding process. It is usually sharp and on the outside edge or bottom edge of the disc.

Pearly refers to a disc that is champion plastic that is not see through (looks pearly). There is a pearly disc thread on here somewhere where you can see plenty of examples! Here for instance.

Thanks for your help... looks like i got myself a pearly orc! :)
 
I have been using the PDGA iPhone app and I am wondering how they calculate round ratings and what goes into the number you get. Also what is a good round rating?

At tournaments, ratings for the rounds are calculated based on how well everyone rated at least 800 performed on that course that day. They basically do a statistical spread and assign the ratings based on that.

A rating of 1000 is considered a scratch ratings. You'll see the term SSA to mean "scratch scoring average." Many years ago, some scratch players at an event were all assigned a 1000 rating, and then rounds were rated from there, and players "lost" and "gained" points to and from one another, while new players were assigned ratings based on how their performances compared to them.

In the PDGA app, they use the historical tournament data to assign each course an SSA. A typical course has an SSA around 50. Each throw above 50 on such a course will cost you 10 points substracted from 1000. So if you throw a 54 (par on a typical 18 hole course) then you get a 960 rating, whereas throwing a 45 will get you a 1050 rating.

Easier courses rated 46 SSA will cost or gain you 13 points per throw below or above 46. So if you threw a 60 on such a course, you would get 1000 - (14 * 13) = 818.

More difficult courses rated 68 SSA will cost or gain you 6 points per throw below or above 46. So if you threw a 70 on such a course, you would get 1000 - (6 * 7) = 968.

Th highest ever rated male player rating is 1044. The highest ever rated female player rating is 968. Anyone male rated 940 or higher is forced to play advanced or open. Any male rated 900 or higher is forced to play intermediate, advanced, or open. Any male rated 850 or higher is forced to play recreational, intermediate, advanced, or open. Males rated less than 850 can play novice. Women rated 800 or higher must play advanced or open. Women rated 750 or higher must play intermediate, advanced, or open. Women rated less than 750 may play recreational division.
 
At tournaments, ratings for the rounds are calculated based on how well everyone rated at least 800 performed on that course that day. They basically do a statistical spread and assign the ratings based on that.

A rating of 1000 is considered a scratch ratings. You'll see the term SSA to mean "scratch scoring average." Many years ago, some scratch players at an event were all assigned a 1000 rating, and then rounds were rated from there, and players "lost" and "gained" points to and from one another, while new players were assigned ratings based on how their performances compared to them.

In the PDGA app, they use the historical tournament data to assign each course an SSA. A typical course has an SSA around 50. Each throw above 50 on such a course will cost you 10 points substracted from 1000. So if you throw a 54 (par on a typical 18 hole course) then you get a 960 rating, whereas throwing a 45 will get you a 1050 rating.

Easier courses rated 46 SSA will cost or gain you 13 points per throw below or above 46. So if you threw a 60 on such a course, you would get 1000 - (14 * 13) = 818.

More difficult courses rated 68 SSA will cost or gain you 6 points per throw below or above 46. So if you threw a 70 on such a course, you would get 1000 - (6 * 7) = 968.

Th highest ever rated male player rating is 1044. The highest ever rated female player rating is 968. Anyone male rated 940 or higher is forced to play advanced or open. Any male rated 900 or higher is forced to play intermediate, advanced, or open. Any male rated 850 or higher is forced to play recreational, intermediate, advanced, or open. Males rated less than 850 can play novice. Women rated 800 or higher must play advanced or open. Women rated 750 or higher must play intermediate, advanced, or open. Women rated less than 750 may play recreational division.

Awesome info thanks:hfive:
 
The only thing I can think of off hand is looking at discs on discgolfcenter.com. They take every disc and more or less run it through Innova-speak for the ratings. Be forewarned though, sometimes they're way off base on some ratings. Marshall Street also has an all inclusive chart as well. And Discnation has an interesting format for their discs also.

http://marshallstreetdiscgolf.com/htmlpages/flightguide.html

Will help give general comparisons and the disc devil review site has good input from players as well as flight charts incorporated.

Joe's chart is the best one to me. The altitude one I linked also provides some numbers and it is helpful in that it categorizes by manufacturer. The marshall street chart I linked and others linked is the easiest and most user friendly universla chart, but it doesn't provide separate numbers for turn and fade, which is the same problem I have with discraft's chart. They just give a general stability rating. I'd look at the marshall street chart to identify candidates and then look at joe's chart to see what the turn and fade differences are between those candidates.


Thanks again for the information you guys. Learning so much it's crazy :thmbup:

Heading out to a local park for my lunch break today to apply some of the principles I've been reading up on ... but now to do some more reading :)
 
next questions: what is the deal with island greens? what are the rules for them?

The rules vary. Usually, you have to land safely on the island or either retee or use a drop zone designated by the TD. TDs usually modify the rule for island holes about taking a drop at the last point in bounds becasue they don't want people just throwing over the island and then dropping on the island for an easy three. Some have even refused to designate a drop zone and required that players retee until they land safely. The PDGA board voted that, starting in 2012, TDs cannot modify the rules about drop zones and dropping IB (in other words they can't force a rethrow or retee) without getting permission ahead of time from the tour director. However, the present tour director has historically been fond of forced retees on island holes, so don't expect any big changes next year. It's going to be up to the TD how such holes are played,so listen up in the player's meeting.
 

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