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[Innova] The mythical Innova ROC

I might have to grab a yellow one. I've got a white 180 KC Pro and a 180 Roc3 and neither of them can do flex shots and they're only a month old. Doesn't seem like a 3 fade at all. I'd love to have one that actually has that fade.
 
Recent roc convert here! Loving the KCs and champ roc3 so far. I have a taffy west sayeed on the way, what should I expect from the flight, feel and dome?
 
It's amazing to me...I've purposely thrashed one of my Rocs; I've thrown rollers on concrete with it, thrown it into trees hard .etc. And at about 290 feet of power, it's still incredibly high speed stable with a slight fade. How the hell do I get a roc that will turn? I'm loving my Rocs and don't see myself taking them out of my bag.
 
my dx roc is the very similar, surprisingly. a lot of it depends on the PLH that you started with. beat it up more. i've actually creased the flightplate of my roc with a tree drive, bent it back into place and it flew just fine. definitely not the same, but still just fine.
 
What about the Star Roc3? I was thinking about picking up an X-out but was worried about the lack of glide...

I got a handful for dyeing and of course to try out. I haven't noticed a lack of glide I have a star ranco as my OS roc , a kc pro roc for slight US roc and the star roc3 for straight longer throws with dependable fade..those 3 make a great trio for me. Will prob keep couple of star roc3 now just incase I lose the one I throw
 
It's amazing to me...I've purposely thrashed one of my Rocs; I've thrown rollers on concrete with it, thrown it into trees hard .etc. And at about 290 feet of power, it's still incredibly high speed stable with a slight fade. How the hell do I get a roc that will turn? I'm loving my Rocs and don't see myself taking them out of my bag.

Personally I would NOT recommend throwing rollers or purposely throwing it into trees whatsoever. The little gouges damage the feel of the disc and they are entirely unnecessary. I've found that the surface texture of the disc is the most important factor of discs acting increasingly more understable with regular use. When a disc is fresh and polished, particularly premium plastic discs, the surface will contact as much air as possible which will slow it down faster producing a bigger wake, resulting in a relatively overstable flight. When the surfaces of the disc slide along the ground it will abrade the surface similar to sandpaper which gives very worn discs their typical appearance.
BeastStarFront.jpg
Through repeated use the entire surface of this beast was scuffed to the point where even the stamp isn't visible. The abrasion removes some material from the surface causing the surface to contact less air during flight, reducing the wake and the rate at which the disc slows down similar to dimples in a golf ball or a lat64 missilen. I can only imagine how overstable a fresh missilen would fly without the hex pattern (stiletto?). Obviously a champion disc starts off much shinier and glossier than a dx disc which already has a relatively rough surface texture, and a dx disc will abrade much much faster especially along the bottom edge of the disc which is key to a loss in stability. If you really wanted to wear in a roc artificially, although it's illegal, then just scuff up the surfaces with sandpaper or some sort of abrasive, like a finely textured rock. I've done it several times before and if you scuff it enough it makes an ENORMOUS difference immediately. I don't bother anymore, rather I just use discs that act pretty much the way I want without having to alter them at all. Though Dave Feldberg advised against my strategy in his latest in the bag video. He probably correctly theorizes that a chunkier disc that began overstable when fresh and polished and has become scuffed and understable like perhaps a very worn eagle x will have more "integrity" (more LSS) at the end of it's flight than say a brand new shiny tl that has a similar flight because during the last part of a flight when a disc is slowing down a disc with a taller, more blocky, less aerodynamic shape will act more overstable because less air is rushing over the disc so the surface texture is less relevant than at the beginning of the flight when the discs is flying at a high speed. I bet he is right to theorize that the beat up roc has more "integrity" at the end of it's flight than the fresh stingray making it more desirable but I'm not willing to artificially scuff up my overstable discs anymore, I'd rather just throw a meteor until my buzzz eventually wears in enough to take it's place. I don't think it's very important and I like to wear in my discs 100% naturally, hence why I don't force "cycling" as many people do on this forum. After all, a destroyer, teebird, roc, or other normally overstable disc that molded up understable when it was fresh and polished will not have that low speed "integrity" that Dave values anyway. It will basically just share the name and some of it's appearance while secretly lacking the integrity you're after. But if you want to buy a few overstable champ teebirds and use sandpaper to start up a cycle ranging from overstable to understable it's a fine idea.
 
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It's amazing to me...I've purposely thrashed one of my Rocs; I've thrown rollers on concrete with it, thrown it into trees hard .etc. And at about 290 feet of power, it's still incredibly high speed stable with a slight fade. How the hell do I get a roc that will turn? I'm loving my Rocs and don't see myself taking them out of my bag.

Andrew, it's possible that 290 feet of power (if this is your max with your roc) may just not be enough to get it turned over.

Other question is....how are you releasing it?
 
I just ordered a DX roc, swore I would never ever buy another DX disc, but I just had to try it in a Roc. I have two KC's, one really beat and A Ranco Star Roc. Had a Champion Roc3 in the cart, but deleted it before I placed the order, I just don't click with champion. Maybe someday I'll try one.
 
I heard the DX' Rocs hold up well, so I'm going to find out!
 
I bet you will like it. It's kind of a crapshoot as to whether or not you'll get good dx, but at this point the more I use dx and kc rocs together, the more I like them both for their merits. Once I have a stack of best kc I may feel differently, but for now I dig'em both just fine. I've really started to appreciate dx in general.
 
Do you guys have any tips to detect "flippy" champion Roc3's? I just started to throw Roc3's and one of my Roc has become so flippy in only two weeks. It does not have much wear.

I'd like to avoid the flippy ones.
 
There really isn't that much randomness to the dx Rocs once you get used to picking them out. Of the last 10 or so I've had only one got vetoed. The person I gave it to loves it (it was a glow roc). Just make sure they aren't too domey and the inner rim isn't plus (unless you are a freak that loves that) and you should be gtg. Remember to bend them back to shape after tree hits. My old ones still get lots of use.
 
Do you guys have any tips to detect "flippy" champion Roc3's? I just started to throw Roc3's and one of my Roc has become so flippy in only two weeks. It does not have much wear.

I'd like to avoid the flippy ones.

It's likely a combination of low weight, low PLH and poor form. Roc3's are pretty consistent and are made from a nearly indestructible blend of Champion plastic. They also tend to be straighter than a fresh Rancho, but not what would be considered flippy.
 
Granted it's a relatively new release but I've actually been really impressed with Roc3 (especially Champ) consistency. I've thrown a bunch, over a fairly large spectrum of weights and they've all been straight with fade. Granted I'm only putting them out to 250' or so, maybe a little more, but I think it'd take a really big arm to show any significant turn.
 
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