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Throwing a really OS driver vs. a mid

Personally, I'm fine with boring golf. Easy hyzer drive parked for a tap-in birdie...yawn! I'll put those on the scorecard all day. Obviously that's not always an option--good course design dictates that it often is not--but I don't go looking for the fanciest line just to amuse myself.

I don't have anything against different/imaginative shots, but given the option I'll go for the boring throw if that's the most reliable way to lower my score.


I dig it. If I'm playing for money then I'm going for the high percentage option. However, I like to keep things interesting otherwise I'll get bored and stop playing.
 
I was playing last week, and came to an open 330'ish hole. Kind of a no brainer mid shot. I usually use a Buzzz or a Wasp for it. This time I decided to lawn dart a Flick in there. Just a basic backhand hyzer. Well, it rammed right in the hole.

I guess I'm just curious how often guys forgo the mids to throw a controlled, short shot with an overstable driver. I'm probably more accurate with the driver, especially in windy conditions. Only downside with doing that is sometimes the driver will hit and skip far from the hole.

Really depends on how much room I have to work with. If there's enough room to throw a wide hyzer at it, you can probably bet I'll be doing that as it's the most consistent shot to range in, in my opinion.

If there's not a lot of room, I'll be going midrange. It's easier for me to miss the shot taking more power off a driver than throwing a mid at a more comfortable power range. The potential skip is another thing to think about, and I'll almost always defer to a mid if I don't want the disc skipping/sliding off into trouble.
 
If memory serves me correctly, someone posted about Philo Braithwith (apologies if misspelled) was throwing shots with a mid or control driver, then with a Destroyer, to show that there's more than one way to skin a cat, so to speak. So what the OP is posting is apparently done by players at every level...

Ha, that was (maybe) me! I got to play a pre-tourney pick-up doubles round on a card with him.

His whole thing was, disc selection is more about the line and less about the distance, as far as determining what to throw. We were playing a pretty demanding woods course, but the idea still applies I think.

It was a neat eye-opener for me at the time, because I was still more trapped in the ball-golf analogy of club-disc, and thinking more in terms of distance determines disc.

To the OP: on a flat, wide open approach, I like a spike hyzer because of the larger margin of error on ranging the shot.
 
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His whole thing was, disc selection is more about the line and less about the distance, as far as determining what to throw. We were playing a pretty demanding woods course, but the idea still applies I think.

It was a neat eye-opener for me at the time, because I was still more trapped in the ball-golf analogy of club-disc, and thinking more in terms of distance determines disc.

This is GREAT advice, and something a ton of players get incorrect.
 
McBeth basically threw his pink mega OS beef champ monster on any open hyzer line backhand at Memorial and DGWT - La Mirada.

its just really high percentage play if you have the arm for it... point that mega OS disc on a huge hyzer and shoot.

If its open and has a hyzer line McBeth with sidearm something beefy (usually beefy destroyer or that monster)... hell he even sidearms the top of the world shot at De Lavehga and thats open to both backhand or sidearm hyzers.
 
Wish I could throw a big BH Hyzer 330 feet, but that actually takes a lot of power I don't have. I'd have to have 400 foot power to do that from what I understand. Pros do this all the time though, 400 hyzers are like cheating for people with 500 foot power...

Was watching Nikko at CSMBU take lines I never could never even consider in this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RfH5yXZJDpY
 
I always throw the slowest disc that gets me there. Much more control over the landing and skipping.

I HATE throwing fast discs with like 50% power.
 
In this situation, if I'm playing for best score I'm throwing a hyzer. If I was out practicing I would probably throw a buzz at it.
 
I'm a bit confused why we are jumping from stable mid (Buzzz) to overstable fairway (Flick). I do understand if wind is a factor. Throw a firebird or whatever out to the side and let it fade on the hole. But why not just go right at it with a TL or Teebird type disc? Personally, as of late, I've preferred to put less strain on the arm and get there easier with a stable fairway. And, when windy, then go flick.
 
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OS mids are completely off topic.

The OP is talking about throwing a traditional mid shot vs an OS driver hyzer.

Well, an idea for OP, with his arm strength, is to disc up to Buzzz OS or Hornet or Drone for when windy and Buzzz or Wasp when more calm. Instead of going right to the OS speed 9 from a speed 5. I think Aim was clarifying that OS mids, to fight wind, really aren't the best of ideas. I would agree with that. I just disc up to t he next speed or 2. That comment also helped my confusion over why we are going right from a mid-range shot to a speed 9. Because speed 5 OS aren't for everyone. What about something OS that is a bit slower, like an Eagle? Something that is designed to not come in as hot as a Flick and not go as far but still give you that swooping fade and fight the wind?
 
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I always throw the slowest disc that gets me there. Much more control over the landing and skipping.

I HATE throwing fast discs with like 50% power.

This was always my mantra, however I have changed it recently. Now I like to say I throw the slowest disc that will make it there at 75%, I am much better off throwing a FD or Predator 75% than a shark or a mortar %100.
 
I'm definitely on board with the strategy of mid vs OS driver, rather than the actual distance

for me, I will always choose the hyzer shot if it is available (at least in any round that matters)... I would throw the straight mid shot if it was a tunnel shot or a gap of some sort, but if the open hyzer is available, then the hyzer is what the spin of the disc naturally wants to do, so why fight it?

because this is the flight the disc naturally wants to take, it is an easier shot to execute with more room for error - I personally adjust the power by just throwing the disc higher or lower, which allows me to still throw the disc the same power out of my hand - if the distance doesn't mesh well, I'll adjust to a high speed or a fairway driver as needed and it is not hard for me to read the wind by doing it this way
 
Feldberg throws a Firebird at it. McBeth throws a McPro Roc at it. One of those people is the best in the world.
 
While this old, badly bent, noodle arm can't see a 330' throw as mid "no brainer" distance I do understand conceptually what the OP is getting at. I love my OS drivers, love them. I've bagged a Flick for years. And now I have a Motion in addition to my Flicks. For me the "no brainer" is use the Mid for Mid distances; whatever your own personal Mid distance is. The reason is simple. The potential for making a bigger mistake is higher with higher speed discs. The distance potential for skips and roll aways are all increased with higher speed discs.
 
The more overstable a disc is....the less variables that affect it. I will gladly throw a spike at shorter holes and hang out hyzers on mid length holes. I can push my mids out as far as a firebird but will take the firebird line when it is present
 
I'm definitely on board with the strategy of mid vs OS driver, rather than the actual distance

for me, I will always choose the hyzer shot if it is available (at least in any round that matters)... I would throw the straight mid shot if it was a tunnel shot or a gap of some sort, but if the open hyzer is available, then the hyzer is what the spin of the disc naturally wants to do, so why fight it?

because this is the flight the disc naturally wants to take, it is an easier shot to execute with more room for error - I personally adjust the power by just throwing the disc higher or lower, which allows me to still throw the disc the same power out of my hand - if the distance doesn't mesh well, I'll adjust to a high speed or a fairway driver as needed and it is not hard for me to read the wind by doing it this way

Actually, fade.

Why not throw a fade shot, where you don't have to judge both distance and R-L? Fade shot...stable-OS disc aimed right of the target, let it fade in naturally. No big skip either, if that's an issue.

Personally, I throw hyzers on R-L holes/shots, not on open lines. I use a flat flying fade shot for that...or run straight at it with a neutral disc if there isn't much room on either side.

FWIW anyway, don't want to derail the thread...again.
 
When I'm trying to score I'm taking the most consistent, high percentage shot that I can, that will lead me to the best chance at the lowest score - which oddly enough turns out to be a hyzer, where it's possible. Who cares if it's boring.
 
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