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Uphill Shots

cunninsa

Par Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2011
Messages
126
Location
Bloomsburg, PA
Whats the best way to approach fairly uphill or extreme uphill shots. I find myself kind of lofting my shots and not getting uphill very easily at all. I don't know if it's technique or discs I'm using. I was using rocs and wizards trying to get up hills but not getting much distance. But Fox Chase (?) at Albemarle, NC was where we were playing.
 
Whats the best way to approach fairly uphill or extreme uphill shots. I find myself kind of lofting my shots and not getting uphill very easily at all. I don't know if it's technique or discs I'm using. I was using rocs and wizards trying to get up hills but not getting much distance. But Fox Chase (?) at Albemarle, NC was where we were playing.

Awesome course :thmbup:

Try throwing some more understable discs,hyzer flips and turnovers are useful for uphill shots.
 
Faster discs will help u get up hills, say u would normally throw a roc based on the distance, but the hole goes up 20 feet. Disc up to a Teebird and u should make it up. Something to keep in mind about hills, every 3 feet you go up/down is like adding/taking away 1 foot from your throw
 
go with lighter drivers with lots of glide and understability......throw on the plane of the hill really hard...lol...works for me
 
Awesome I'll keep all this in mind. This was the first course I've been on that had hills like this. Caught me off guard a little. Oh and a lot of trees too. My one roc took a little bit of a beating.
 
your flight plane should be on the angle of the terrain. hyzer lines will get u less distance vs anhyzer due to glide which is needed when throwing uphill.
 
basically, in inverse order (this is my opinion)

1) Discs that are lighter
2) discs that have better glide
3) discs that are understable
4) throwing with proper form

If you throw with proper form, you can throw overstable discs uphill if you want to and be fine. I wouldn't recommend this, but proper form is by far the best help when throwing uphill.

And when I say proper form, i basically mean keeping the nose down relative to the plane the disc is flying on.
 
Depends a lot on the hill too. If the fairway is a gradual uphill from the pad to the basket I usually take a slightly lighter version of whatever I would throw if there was no hill. If its a hole where you run say 300ft flat then the hill starts i'll just take my regular driver and rip one at the halfway point of the slope. I do that instead of running the pin to avoid floating some weak shot that ends up hyzering 100ft to the left.
 
A shot works really well if it is an initial hill you need to get over then the hole plateaus out if you have a powerful forehand and a lot of left to right space, is to throw an overstable high speed driver forehand on an extreme anhyzer angle with the nose down fairly high above the hill and the driver will come out of the turn and glide before is finishes.

The key with any uphill shot IMO is keeping the nose down as best as possible, which is usually easier said than done.
 
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Yeah I have not kept the nose down at all. I'll have to remember that too. The bad thing is there are no local courses close to practice throwing uphill.
 
The best tip I've heard on the subject is to think of uphill shots like throwing with a tailwind. Your disc will act more overstable and fade quicker. Unlike with a tailwind, you'll lose distance, but this means you can be more aggressive with your shot and not worry (usually) about going long.
 
Stability matters not a bit to me - this is about the hill. I play golf and teach physics, an interesting combo! Your fairway angle tilted up, so you adjust you angle up. Throw your best distance disc hard and make it strike the hill level. Yeah, a turnover shot will grip the hill and might roll up a tad while if it goes to skip curve you can lose distance. I agree that a fast disc helps this process.
 
Definitely be more aggressive. The 3 to 1 rise/run ratio mentioned earlier works pretty well.

My home course plays up and down a steep hillside. I've been helped tremendously by finally realizing that if the it's 300 ft from tee to pin, it's not the same as 300 ft on a field. On a field the disc has it's full flight - rise + fade and descent. On the hill where the pin is 40 ft higher than the tee, the disc still needs to be rising when it reaches the pin. It needs to be thought of as a much longer drive than the distance on the tee sign would indicate. The height difference takes a lot more arm than you may think.
 
Faster discs will help u get up hills, say u would normally throw a roc based on the distance, but the hole goes up 20 feet. Disc up to a Teebird and u should make it up. Something to keep in mind about hills, every 3 feet you go up/down is like adding/taking away 1 foot from your throw

Surprised I'm the first to point it out, but that bolded part is exactly backwards. Every 1 foot elevation change is roughly equal to 3 feet in distance.
 
if it's 300 ft from tee to pin, it's not the same as 300 ft on a field. On a field the disc has it's full flight - rise + fade and descent. On the hill where the pin is 40 ft higher than the tee, the disc still needs to be rising when it reaches the pin. It needs to be thought of as a much longer drive than the distance on the tee sign would indicate.

Surprised I'm the first to point it out, but that bolded part is exactly backwards. Every 1 foot elevation change is roughly equal to 3 feet in distance.

As I was reading the thread, I was going to post along the lines of these^^.
 
I'm all about the teebird for the uphill but here in Illinois there arnt many uphill shots.
 
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