[Discmania] Power Driver Freak PEEDEE Thread

[elmexdela]

ive been using my pro since january. it really hasnt lost stability and ive drilled quite a few trees too. im surprised and impressed about its durability. mine gets like rim rash, and actually dents? anyone else get this too?

my plan was using up my pros till they get too flippy then switch to spd so they can stay in their normal stability longer since i dont think i will be cycling these

 

[cjman]

Why would you plan to take a worn ppd out of your bag after playing with it for six + months? Seems crazy to me. They are amazing straight and understable drivers when they're aged. Less touchy than us off the shelf drivers in my experience.

 

[what'shisname]

I've had the same PPD in my bag going on 5 years now and use it all the time and can't see taking it out for any reason for a long time yet.

 

[DikkaD]

I've had the same PPD in my bag going on 5 years now and use it all the time and can't see taking it out for any reason for a long time yet.

I just lost my ppd that I've had for two seasons. Next round I threw it's replacement in a creek.....

 

[what'shisname]

I just lost my ppd that I've had for two seasons. Next round I threw it's replacement in a creek.....

Ouch.

 

[elmexdela]

Why would you plan to take a worn ppd out of your bag after playing with it for six + months? Seems crazy to me. They are amazing straight and understable drivers when they're aged. Less touchy than us off the shelf drivers in my experience.

i dont plan on cycling it. it still has some great life left. but i feel like its bite at the end is too much in what i want in an understable driver spot

 

[kevdiv48]

For me, as someone that can throw PD's comfortably between 350 and 375, the difference in stability in P and S PD is very apparent. Thrown flat and hard, a 7/10 max weight P line will turn and hold it to the ground, whereas the S line will turn for a bit but fight out a good amount. If both are released with hyzer and a bit of (intentional) OAT the P will flip up and turn a solid amount before fading back. The S line will at most flip to flat. This has been consistent with the 3 or 4 of each that I have thrown.

 

[Flick Maniac]

The gold G-PD is really a lot like dried up grass... tricky to find sometimes, but such a nice flyer

 

[spahnandsain]

I hate to be this guy but....
I am going to the innova factory for my birthday. I love PDs, especially S-line but was interested in S-line, Gstar, and have a lot of interest in finally adding a C-PD to my bag (have plenty of P-lines). I tend to throw less than 170 grams and would really prefer around 165s because my max D is around 340 by hyzer flipping a low 160s tern or mamba.

Now the questions, what type of PD (in S, C, or G) would you look for if you were me? I would need to stay away from the really overstable runs of CPDs. I've read the current 4th runs are pretty straight flyers with good fade (for a noodle arm). How would I identify them?

Lastly, which are the really desirable ones (for resale value, not for me)? Are patent numbers good or bad?

Thanks for the help

 

[tbird888]

G-Line would probably be a good disc for you. The 3rd run C-Lines (opaque and pearly) would also. P-Line would probably be the best if you're looking for pure distance, but it's not on your list.

When it comes to C-Lines, patent numbers are good for collecting but bad for you throwing since they're the most overstable.

 

[Jlee]

I hate to be this guy but....
I am going to the innova factory for my birthday. I love PDs, especially S-line but was interested in S-line, Gstar, and have a lot of interest in finally adding a C-PD to my bag (have plenty of P-lines). I tend to throw less than 170 grams and would really prefer around 165s because my max D is around 340 by hyzer flipping a low 160s tern or mamba.

Now the questions, what type of PD (in S, C, or G) would you look for if you were me? I would need to stay away from the really overstable runs of CPDs. I've read the current 4th runs are pretty straight flyers with good fade (for a noodle arm). How would I identify them?

Lastly, which are the really desirable ones (for resale value, not for me)? Are patent numbers good or bad?

Thanks for the help

I've been bagging 3 pd's for a year now and I will try to answer your questions.

As far as the overtstable runs, I've noticed the SPD freak stamps are quite OS as well as the earlier CPD runs. The semi pearly CPD are the straighest out of the box with decent fade. A PPD will be fairly straight out of the box as well, but I've also heard that the GPD are similar to the pearly CPD, however I don't care for gstar plastic so I've never tried one.

For collectibles I think the shield stamp SPD are worth about ~20. Not sure if patent numbers garner a premium over newer runs. Good luck at the factory!

 

[spahnandsain]

G-Line would probably be a good disc for you. The 3rd run C-Lines (opaque and pearly) would also. P-Line would probably be the best if you're looking for pure distance, but it's not on your list.

When it comes to C-Lines, patent numbers are good for collecting but bad for you throwing since they're the most overstable.

TB,
Thanks for your help, very informative. Yeah I'm not looking for max d from them just a long distance, faster than my teebird, kinda fairway duties.

Any other thoughts from anyone?

 

[spahnandsain]

I've been bagging 3 pd's for a year now and I will try to answer your questions.

As far as the overtstable runs, I've noticed the SPD freak stamps are quite OS as well as the earlier CPD runs. The semi pearly CPD are the straighest out of the box with decent fade. A PPD will be fairly straight out of the box as well, but I've also heard that the GPD are similar to the pearly CPD, however I don't care for gstar plastic so I've never tried one.

For collectibles I think the shield stamp SPD are worth about ~20. Not sure if patent numbers garner a premium over newer runs. Good luck at the factory!

Thank you, you guys have helped greatly. We really need a thanks button around here. I have one of those freaky red 152 freak stamp s-lines that almost turned me away from PDs. I am definitely grabbing a pearly or two.

When looking at S-PDs, how can I avoid an early run super OS one? Get one with no patent numbers?

 

[rallyguy]

It's going to be hard to find one of the first run S lines...those were before even the shield stamps I believe. Any S line you buy from a store will be the more current runs...however it will take some use before it flies like a teebird. If you are powering it down, it's going to have a pretty healthy fade to it.

Despite the feel, the G line will probably have the flight you are looking for new, might be worth a shot. If you don't like it you'll probably be able to sell it here on the MP pretty fast

 

[tbird888]

If you want a PD in S-Line that isn't beefy, you have to look for the early shield stamps. They'll still have some beef, but they won't be as beefy as the lightweight you have. Their PLH is super low compared to every other S-PD I've owned over the years.

From someone who's thrown them for several years, take your current S-Line to a wooded course and throw a bunch of thumbers and FH rollers. It'll become exactly what you want fairly quickly.

If you don't want to put in the time and don't want to try a P-Line, pick up a G-Line.

 

[Um...]

It really sounds like you're looking for a G-Line, and not an S. They're closer to the shield stamp/slightly beat in S-Lines. Definitely recommend checking one out if you're looking for something straighter flying out of the box and you're not interested in the P-Line.

FWIW, my first experience with the PD was also with one of those totally OS early run S-Lines and it completely turned me away from PDs for a long time. In fact, I don't even know why I went back to them (maybe people here saying they flew completely differently than my experience), but I'm glad I did. Something really really REALLY special would have to come along to make me take them out of the bag.

 

[spahnandsain]

@Rally and TB, thank you for taking the time to reply, all of the info is much appreciated.

 

[spahnandsain]

It really sounds like you're looking for a G-Line, and not an S. They're closer to the shield stamp/slightly beat in S-Lines. Definitely recommend checking one out if you're looking for something straighter flying out of the box and you're not interested in the P-Line.

FWIW, my first experience with the PD was also with one of those totally OS early run S-Lines and it completely turned me away from PDs for a long time. In fact, I don't even know why I went back to them (maybe people here saying they flew completely differently than my experience), but I'm glad I did. Something really really REALLY special would have to come along to make me take them out of the bag.

Cool, I'll grab a few g-lines and a few pearly Cs, since I'm set on Ps. Hopefully those two won't overlap. Do you guys feel that they would overlap much with the teebird and rival I carry? PDs are faster, longer, and possibly power down better, right?

 

[tbird888]

After five years of carrying TeeBirds, I benched them when I finally settled on PDs. At the time my mids were getting out to the distances where PDs get unpredictable.

I do think that a G-Line could very easily replace both your TeeBird and Rival (these two molds are really close anyway).

 

[spahnandsain]

After five years of carrying TeeBirds, I benched them when I finally settled on PDs. At the time my mids were getting out to the distances where PDs get unpredictable.

I do think that a G-Line could very easily replace both your TeeBird and Rival (these two molds are really close anyway).

Thanks for the advice. I think it been a mental thing for me with the PDs being speed 10 and the tb/rival being 7. I've always thought I needed them both but in a field I am sure they would be about the same. I only had both the TB and rival because the TB was beat star and the rival was new pinnacle and flew more stable almost like my old 11x TB.