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Discmania S-TD Turning Driver

Booter said:
Hmmm i might snag some. My s is beat to fliptastic goodness but this d line could b a good "throw away" version when i dnt want to risk my s

so basically just for hole 5 at northtown?
 
YES!!!!!!! That hole is my nemesis.....i still feel out of place with that original td :( .if u ever see a orange td come in with a 12monkeys dye..its mine :(,
 
sunspot said:
Judging from some observations the TD seems to be a better hyzer-flip disc than the PD, is that true?

Short answer: yes

You probably know this already, but depending on the plastic you get and the stage of wear, either one could be flippier. The PD isn't made to be a hyzer-flip disc, but you can easily beat it in to become one. A beat-in PD (compared to a fresh TD) will flip later, more abruptly, and might not come back unless you give it enough height. My new 175 C TD makes a nice slow-turning driver. Thrown with just a touch of hyzer, it goes just a little past flat and makes a nice curve before faithfully coming back.

From what I have heard, the C-line is less stable than the S-line out of the box (but that seems to be because the S-lines have less dome?). But of course, a D or S line would beat-in faster and become an excellent hyzer-flip disc. Anyone got some input here about stability between S and C lines?
 
My dark red production run C-TD 175 has patent tooling and rim is not slanted.
Its bottom says 175 BST and TD is writen over it.
How it will fly compared to champ Beast or SOLS
 
tiger aqua said:
My dark red production run C-TD 175 has patent tooling and rim is not slanted.
Congratulations, you got yourself a production stamped CFR C-TD.

EDIT: Dark red... Is it only a bit translucent/see-through? You might have a champystar in your hands. Very nice discs.
 
I'm still carrying around my CTD, yet I'm still not sure it has a place in my bag. It is just that weird. As a distance disc it flies really long and holds an anhyzer without turning too much better than anything I've ever thrown. I can look at a tree line in the distance with this disc and aim above it and get there...Anything faster needs to be thrown much lower to go that far for me, so this disc is great for long bombs. On shots near or over 400', whatever line my TD is on 50% through the flight is the line it holds to the ground. On shots from 350'-390' it has a modest fade. On shorter shots the fade is much more significant. However, while the LSS is very speed dependent, the HSS is not. I can throw it flat from 250'-350' and hit cruise without turning the disc over...That's pretty amazing imo. I have to really power it low and close to flat to see a shot that just turns and burns. It is also a great power roller disc.

I've posted this info before, but just to reiterate...The STD varies a lot. I've thrown Roadrunner flippy ones (green, flat, gummy 175) to overstable (stiff, domey, yellow 175), to pretty darn straight (red champystar 173). The CTDs with the PLUS configuration are very consistent, all within a half degree in stability (I've tried 4 colors).
 
discspeed said:
I've posted this info before, but just to reiterate...The STD varies a lot. I've thrown Roadrunner flippy ones (green, flat, gummy 175) to overstable (stiff, domey, yellow 175), to pretty darn straight (red champystar 173). The CTDs with the PLUS configuration are very consistent, all within a half degree in stability (I've tried 4 colors).
They do vary, but from what I've seen they tend to obey the gummy = understable / stiff = overstable rule. And personally I think the stiff overstable ones are the best of the bunch after you season them a bit.
 
I currently throw Valks. They fill two slots in my bag distance, anhyzer-turnover shots. Is thier any benefit to trying out a C-TD. Eagle X for me goes 300 and Valk about 320. If that helps any. When I hear people describe the S and C-TD and what they use it for it doesnt sound much different than a Valk. But if its easier for someone in my power range to get up to cruising speed maybe the distance potential is greater for someone like me than the Valk. Thank you for the help.
 
I've gotten quite a few lower power (350' max) players hooked on these as distance control drivers. Between these and PDs, discmania is really starting to show up in some bags around here.
 
mattw said:
I currently throw Valks. They fill two slots in my bag distance, anhyzer-turnover shots. Is thier any benefit to trying out a C-TD. Eagle X for me goes 300 and Valk about 320. If that helps any. When I hear people describe the S and C-TD and what they use it for it doesnt sound much different than a Valk. But if its easier for someone in my power range to get up to cruising speed maybe the distance potential is greater for someone like me than the Valk. Thank you for the help.
From my limited experience with Valks the understable ones (DX, 150 Class Champ and other low PLH ones) always turned way more, and the more stable ones (Star and other higher PLH ones) always faded more. And whatever movement they did, they did it faster than the TD.

Even the really understable (compared to my premium plastic ones) D-TD has a slow, pondering sort of turn. It just keeps on turning for a long time. =)
 
Dudes who've got a production stamp C-TD with patent number tooling (and hence non-plus rim), how heavy are they? I received two weighing 175 today and both are clearly from the earlier CFR runs and have the production stamp. At first we only had production stamped ones going up to 172 and supposedly these were all +molds, now the heavier ones are available and I'd wager that they're surplus stock from the early CFR run stamped with the production stamp. Mine are blue and look and feel identical to my old CFR blue.
 
Just want to say I have a 175 Production C TD that has a High PLH and boy do I love this thing. It is Very much like a longer EagleX. I went to the field after some golf today and was throwing my Champ Eagles next to my production C TD and they were flying almost exactly identical except the TD was longer.

Oh and I threw my beat C TD in a marked field in a very slight tailwind out to around 475ft.......just had to pat my own back :twisted:
 
The few new CTDs that my local PIAS got in are sort of flat and feel like the rim is more slanted than my domey one. Looks like this will be another mold I'll have to be picky about the shape with. I'll pick up some of the flat ones just to see if they will be useful.
 
disc junkie said:
Oh and I threw my beat C TD in a marked field in a very slight tailwind out to around 475ft.......just had to pat my own back :twisted:
You do stretches to kiss your own ass like that?

I kid I kid. I seen this guy threw the shit out of a disc and he doesn't claim to be throwing a hundred feet further than he really does like I hear from so many people.
 
Went through the stack of TDs at Powergrip yesterday and confirmed my personal findings: The stiffer S-TDs at around 168-172 are noticeably higher PLH than the softer and heavier ones (though I did find one really pale blue, just off-white really, gummy max weight that was high PLH as well). These are my favorites due to them being able to handle power without turning and being better in the wind. They also eventually beat up into understable S-TDs, so you get the best of both.

Though there is something to be said of a very beat champystar. Throw it high and flat and it'll go straight for a while and then rocket off to the right. Great when getting over trees and a hyzer would go the wrong way.
 
Thanks for that i just asked about how to identify straight TDs in another thread. I imagine the higher PLH are the straight kinds of TDs.
 
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