MD2

[New013]

the fade beats out and the stability stays close to where it is so you end up with straightness.

 

[jubuttib]

Yep. The flat ones I use faded quite noticeably out of the box, but deflashing and some slight wear took care of that. They're still just as HSS as ever and not afraid of the wind.

 

[mickas1]

Well I've been tossing md2s for a little while now and they are super similar to z buzzzes, I'm not sure what to do at this point because I own so many buzzzes. I really can't justify carrying both because of how identical they are, so a few questions to make me choose between the two:

1. do the md2s hold turnovers better than a buzzz when they get beat in?
2. once beat up how predictable are they in the wind (buzzzes get stupid unpredictable when beaten and thrown in the wind)
3. I haven't taken much time to compare the range control between the two, which do you prefer for powering down etc.

Side note: I've been carrying a z wasp or two (the old 4 stamp ones) to compliment the md2s and I like the combination a lot.

 

[jubuttib]

1.I'm using beat D-MD2's as my turnover mids, and they work beautifully. I'm sure other plastics work as well, but I haven't beaten one in to that point yet. Considering how neutral they are when they start out anyway, I can't see why they wouldn't hold the line.

2. Well, when it comes to beat MD2's, the one I'm most familiar with in the wind is an old P-Line of mine, which is definitely still great, better than an Axis by far. It will turn into a wind but it's not squirrelly. And that's the old mold, the newer ones start out much better in the wind overall. But headwind will make any disc fly more understable, so always take that into account, obviously.

Can't answer for 3 because I've pretty much only tested Buzzzes, they've never been in my bag as such. But as far as range control goes, I haven't had any problems with MD2's. When brand spanking new they have noticeably more fade when underpowered, but that beats out pretty quickly, especially from the lower end plastic. They're faster than Rocs and have very decent glide, so they're not as easy to range as Rocs can be, but they probably won't suddenly glide way past your mark like a Comet or Fuse might with their insane glide.

 

[zj10021]

Contacted the factory store about getting some old CFR MD2s. They say the top never changed and were interested in pics.

If y'all got any nose closeups post em and I'll include them. Need all the proof I can find

 

[jubuttib]

They're either lying or ignorant:
My oldest CFR C-MD2 on the left, blunty blunt blunt production C-MD2 on the right. My newest 3rd run C-MD2's have an identical nose to the production one.

New blunt Pro plastic P-MD2 on the left, old R-Pro plastic P-MD2 on the right.

Old R-Pro plastic P-MD2 on the left, new Millennium Aurora MS on the right.

 

[mjdepue]

What other mids are you guys throwing with the MD2?

I like my Cs but I'm thinking about adding something more overstable. Vector maybe?

I'm going to have to pick up some Ps as well since these S-Lines don't seem to want to break in.

 

[zj10021]

I throw the MD2 w/ a QMS. The md2 is my stable mid. My CFR and C-line are stable enough for what I need. I use the CFR on all kinds of skip hyzers. The only other mid that makes the bag, based on the course, would the the Q-Sentinel

 

[jubuttib]

I throw a Vector for when I really need the overstable finish. It helps since I don't carry anything between my mids and the PD/TD combo. Other than that it's just different MD2's. Before the D-Lines I entertained the idea of a Fuse, but not anymore.

EDIT: BTW zj, did those pictures help?
EDIT2: Once again, I'm really liking the fact that all of my D-MD2's from 172 to 180 seem to fly identically, the lighter ones having just a tad more carry but are otherwise equally stable.

 

[zj10021]

Jub they help. I am just waiting on ZAM to send me the pictures he took at the warehouse for me the other day. We compared rocs, sharks, md2, and aurora ms. He got some good ones.

and I really want a D-Line MD2. Any clue on when they will make it to the states? or where I can get them if they are already here?

 

[Jozzz]

Does anyone have any experience with P-MD2s and R-Pro MD2s? Looking for a comparison of the two.

 

[mjdepue]

I throw a Vector for when I really need the overstable finish. It helps since I don't carry anything between my mids and the PD/TD combo. Other than that it's just different MD2's. Before the D-Lines I entertained the idea of a Fuse, but not anymore.

I don't carry true fairways anymore either, so I might look into a Vector. Thanks.

 

[Trey1331]

Contacted the factory store about getting some old CFR MD2s. They say the top never changed and were interested in pics.

If y'all got any nose closeups post em and I'll include them. Need all the proof I can find

I want to apologize in advance for rumaging through even last MD2 stock I could find at Innova East and buying all the CFR's from USDGC. In case they're not able to find anymore.

 

[jubuttib]

Does anyone have any experience with P-MD2s and R-Pro MD2s? Looking for a comparison of the two.

Yes. They're two different molds. The old R-Pros are basically Aurora MS's with a +mold rim, and fly like an identically domey AMS will fly, perhaps slightly more gradual in it's movements due to the slight difference in weight distribution. On the whole they're less HSS and more naturally suited for a slightly understable slot than the newer blunter nosed P-MD2's, which are more HSS and hold on to that stability for longer. The newer ones basically start out a tad overstable and once you beat some of that fade out they become more true neutral than the old R-Pros. Additionally all the R-Pros I've seen have had only a slight dome, and all the newer P-Lines have been way domey. The bigger dome slows the disc down faster and adds some fade, so the old ones are faster and have a natural tendency to finish straighter.

The slight exception are the orange R-Pro MD2's, all of which I've seen have come out a bit miss-molded. They have a more concave wing profile (many blind tests have been done and it's easy to tell them apart from the others), which causes them to initially fly more stable and take much longer to beat to understable. They stay very straight and neutral for a very long time, hardly any fade at all and only minimal turn when pushed hard. They also work on a larger power range without getting too under or overstable than most other variations. My favorite MD2.

 

[Jozzz]

Does anyone have any experience with P-MD2s and R-Pro MD2s? Looking for a comparison of the two.

Yes. They're two different molds. The old R-Pros are basically Aurora MS's with a +mold rim, and fly like an identically domey AMS will fly, perhaps slightly more gradual in it's movements due to the slight difference in weight distribution. On the whole they're less HSS and more naturally suited for a slightly understable slot than the newer blunter nosed P-MD2's, which are more HSS and hold on to that stability for longer. The newer ones basically start out a tad overstable and once you beat some of that fade out they become more true neutral than the old R-Pros. Additionally all the R-Pros I've seen have had only a slight dome, and all the newer P-Lines have been way domey. The bigger dome slows the disc down faster and adds some fade, so the old ones are faster and have a natural tendency to finish straighter.

The slight exception are the orange R-Pro MD2's, all of which I've seen have come out a bit miss-molded. They have a more concave wing profile (many blind tests have been done and it's easy to tell them apart from the others), which causes them to initially fly more stable and take much longer to beat to understable. They stay very straight and neutral for a very long time, hardly any fade at all and only minimal turn when pushed hard. They also work on a larger power range without getting too under or overstable than most other variations. My favorite MD2.

Thanks for your insight. I wanna try an MD2 that would beat in a little quicker, but I am definitely not interested in something like the new P-MD2s if they are super domey and start out with HSS similar to the C-Lines or S-Lines. Wish I could find some D-Lines...

 

[jubuttib]

All the new mold MD2's start out with similar HSS, even the D-Lines aren't far off from the C's. =)

 

[Jozzz]

All the new mold MD2's start out with similar HSS, even the D-Lines aren't far off from the C's. =)

Ah. Well that probably doesn't last too long, right? I have no problem waiting a bit for a disc to beat in, but my s-line and c-line have been in my bag for most of this year and I haven't seen a huge difference in stability since they were new.

 

[jubuttib]

Not too long no. The one I beat in first became understable enough in about a month, including 5+ solid tree smacks that dented it heavily (I just bent it back and it was like nothing had happened). It's still not flippy, just has a consistent turn.

 

[zj10021]

Contacted the factory store about getting some old CFR MD2s. They say the top never changed and were interested in pics.

If y'all got any nose closeups post em and I'll include them. Need all the proof I can find

I want to apologize in advance for rumaging through even last MD2 stock I could find at Innova East and buying all the CFR's from USDGC. In case they're not able to find anymore.

damn you!

I did get this response

Zach,
I think we have finally found our answer. The MD2 went through several iterations before finally becoming what it is today (e.g. "blunt" nosed). The blunt nosed MD2 is what Jussi has selected for his lineup. The previous MD2 was a configuration that was eventually scrapped in favor of the blunt nosed version.

He even said they have "pre-blunt" nosed s-md2's on the factory store if anyone want some http://proshop.innovadiscs.com/factory-second-st-md2.html

They are a bit pricey for what I want but we have stock stamp "pre-blunt" at Disc Nation so I probably just buy those. If he had found some C-MD2s I definitely would have purchased those. I guess I need to really treasure this CFR C-line. The only pre-blunt MD2s he could find were those s-md2, so they won't be around long

I pretty much just need to hope that Millennium runs a new batch of QMS. Pretty confident we will get the same disc as the CFR C-MD2.

Also ZAM was kind enough to do this for my inquiry:

 

[zj10021]

The S-MD2 is this picture is "pre-blunt nose"

The C-MD2 pictured is very similar to the QMS. The nose isn't as blunt as my flat yellow opaque C-MD2. My yellow opaque one resembles the pink one that Jub has in terms of bluntness.

so much talk of blunts...

I am probably going to order some Aurora MS from Millennium since it is identical to my CFR md2